Bringing My Puppy Home

Thank you for allowing Chris and I,  in our own little way, to be a part of your family.  Understanding you have gone through a tremendous family transformation, I hope this information will help you “survive” puppyhood.

If this is your first puppy, we highly suggest “puppy proofing” your house prior to picking up your new family addition. Seemingly harmless household items like floor plants, decorations, shoes, clothing, children’s toys etc, can become an easy chocking hazard or may contain chemicals hazardous to your puppy.

By the time you picked up your puppy, Chris and I have already began the well puppy care and socialization process.  Listed below are several very important topics.

CSB HIGHLY RECOMMENDS that you DO NOT take your new puppy into public places such as pet stores, dog parks or even family and friends house until ALL VACCINATIONS have been completed.  Unfortunately, you can’t account for the health and well-being of other dogs and by exposing your unvaccinated puppy to highly contagious and potentially fatal deceases such as PARVO .

  1. First Vet Visit:  The best veterinarians have busy schedules, so if you know exactly when you’ll be picking your puppy up, call in advance to get a convenient appointment. Don’t wait until the last minute.

    You should also try to visit the clinic before your puppy comes home. Look around and see if you are at ease there, that the support staff seems friendly, and the facility is clean. Most vets will take time to chat with prospective clients. This can be very helpful, because it’s important that you are comfortable enough with this individual to ask questions. You will have lots of them when your new pup comes home and you want someone who will treat your concerns with respect.

    Also find out about the clinic’s after-hours set up. One great truth about life with puppies is that emergencies rarely pop up from 9 to 5. Know what to do in the case your puppy gets an ear infection in the middle of the night, and that includes making plans for transportation to the facility.

    What to expect at the first visit:

    • Weigh the puppy;
    • Listen to heart and lungs with a stethoscope;
    • Take his temperature (note: pet temperatures are taken rectally);
    • Examine eyes, ears, nose, feet, and genitalia
    • Examine skin and coat;
    • Look at teeth and mouth;
    • Palpate abdomen and lymph nodes;
    • Examine feces (bring a sample) for the presence of worms (most pups have roundworms);
    • Discuss the puppy’s history and any questions you might have about feeding, medical issues, such as worm medications, and future care, such as microchipping.  This is also a good time to discuss spaying and neutering timetables.
    • If you are going home with medications or treatments, make sure that you understand when and how they are to be given. Follow directions to the letter, and set up a schedule for follow-up visits and vaccinations.
  2. Vaccination Schedule

    1. 6 – 8 Weeks: Distemper, Measles, Parainfluenza. Unless otherwise specified in your Puppy Contract, CSB has already given this round before you picked up your puppy.
    2. 10-12 Weeks: DHPP(vacines for distemper, Adenovirus [herpatitis], Parainfluenza and Parvovius:  Depended on when you purchased your puppy, CSB may or may not have already given this vaccination.
    3. 14-16 Weeks: DHPP(vacines for distemper, Adenovirus [herpatitis], Parainfluenza and Parvovius.
    4. 12-24 Weeks: Rabies: This vaccination can only be given by a DVM
  3. Feeding Your Puppy:  We feed our dogs Diamond Natural products.  Diamond can be widely found in places like pet stores, Tractor Supply or higher end grocery stores.  Our puppies are fed Diamond Natural Puppy – Chicken and Rice – large breed.  When you picked up your puppy, CSB gave you a large zip-lock bag of this food.  If for some reason, you can find Diamond Natural, you can use any HIGH quality puppy food.  When changing feed, gradually replace the Diamond Natural with your high quality replacement.  Making any sudden changes, may cause the puppy digestive problems.

    1. 6–12 weeks: Four feedings a day are usually adequate to meet nutritional demands.  We suggest slightly “softening” the food with warm water before feeding.  Not only will this be more appealing and easier for the puppy to eat, by wetting it, you are also provide some from of additional liquid.
    2. 3–6 months: Sometime during this period, decrease feedings from four to three a day. A pup should be losing her potbelly and pudginess by 12 weeks. If they are still roly-poly at this age, continue to feed puppy-size portions until body type matures.
    3. 6–12 months: Begin feeding twice daily. Spaying or neutering lowers energy requirements slightly; after the procedure, switch from nutrient-rich puppy food to adult maintenance food. Small breeds can make the switch at 7 to 9 months.  Error on the side of caution: Better to be on puppy food a little too long than not long enough. Whenever switching food, gradually replace the new with the old.  Any sudden change in food can result in digestive issues.
    4. After age 1: Most owners feed adult dogs two half-portions a day.
  4. Treats: First and foremost – NO RAWHIDE.  When getting your new puppy try to stick with one diet and one type of treat for a while until your dog adapts to its new home and environment. If you do decide to change, make that change over several days adding a little more new food to the old.  Make an abrupt change may cause your puppy issues.